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In July of 1987 I heard of an intriguing “stone wall,” some megalithic stones and mounds on Tomales Point at the extreme northern area of the Point Reyes Seashore. A friend told me I would find these mysterious stones if I was attuned to their presence––they would beckon me. Having had a long fascination with stones and their alignments with the seasons and the risings and settings of celestial bodies, I wondered about this site. On that late July afternoon, I brought my camera and headed out to the trail to take a look. The following photo essay reveals what I found there thirty-seven years ago, followed by what I saw on a subsequent visit last January.
IMPORTANT NOTE: IF you visit this site please be respectful. Do not disturb or deface in any way the stones you see there. These stones are sacred to certain indigenous peoples.
There are two predominant theories about the stones and their origin on the Tomales Point Trail. One theory hypothesizes that the lined-up stones are property lines from ranching in the 1800s. The other proposes that they are far older and serve as “stepping off stones” for the spirits of indigenous peoples to journey in the afterlife to the Farralon Islands or perhaps to Mount St. Helena. Both places are visible from the highlands of Tomales Point. Neither of these theories have conclusive proof to back them. For now, the history and purpose of their construction remains a mystery, a compelling one!
First Visit to Tomales Point Trail
On my first visit in 1987, I hiked up the long grade and at first noticed no interesting stone formations. I did, however, gain a spectacular overview of the rocky point at McClures Beach to my south.
As I was nearing the plateau of Tomales Point, I saw a striking monolithic stone to the west of the trail. Drawn by its presence, I walked toward it for a closer look. I was moved to photograph it. I recently learned that this megalithic stone has a name––Goliath! I didn’t notice at the time that there was a 6-pointed star petroglyph carved into its west-facing side. I also recently noticed, while taking a closer look at this early photograph, that the petroglyph side of the stone seemed unusually flat as though it had been somehow carved down.
I returned to the trail, wondering where the so-called “stone wall” was. In about a hundred yards, I walked right through it. If I hadn’t been scanning the horizon left and right I might have never noticed it. What I discovered was the wall was more of a “stone line.” At the trail the line of stones was interrupted and continued on the other side of the path in a line heading in a more easterly direction. Both lines were exceedingly straight. I wondered if they pointed at a visible geographical feature. Most of the stones were submerged and barely visible. Every so often a larger rock stood up like a beacon. I made a couple of photographs featuring one of the larger stones that looked like it had been chiseled into a cube!
Returning: January, 2024
I had been thinking of returning to this site for a couple of years and so, on a January morning this year Jean and I went to visit this unusual place. The trail seemed much steeper than I remembered it, and well, it had been thirty-seven years since I walked it. On the way I up, I paused to photograph the overview of McClures Point. The winter view is darker, more somber.
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Further up, we saw a healthy coyote, hunting.
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Somehow, I walked right past Goliath and ended up at the stone line, where I made a quick documentary photo.
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We then looked toward the north, and saw a mound of rocks. We later learned it is called the Sol Mound; from there you can observe the sun clearly, throughout the year, setting and rising, on every horizon. As we approached the elevated mound, one rock stood out––the Sol Stone.
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Here are two views from the top of the mound.
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Upon leaving the Sol Mound, I turned to look at it one more time. We talked about coming back sometime soon for another visit.
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